Oh, Hollywood...

Here we have Byung-hum Lee, one of the stars of the new G.I. Joe movie. He's exhibiting everything right about about a suit, something his co-stars need a hand with. Notice where the vest ends, over the trousers. Not above them. It creates a seameless line of fabric, the intended purpose of a three-piece suit. Co-star Marlon Wayans attempted the same look. But alas, either the vest is too short or the trousers are too long. Either way, it breaks up what otherwise is a pretty solid look.

Channing Tatum has been stepping out well-suited while promoting this film. Only detail, the bottom button on the suit. Switch 'em up, and all is well.

Where do I start with this guy. If this was The Player Hater's Ball from Chappelle's show, he would be perfect, but red shoes are best left to the Pope and the red shirt? R.I.P. MJ.

This final young man below is decidedly trendy. Slim lapels, shirt collar and tie.  While not for most guys in most situations, this look works for his age and a Hollywood premiere.

An unexpected twist

How often do you see Washingtonians wearing Chelsea boots with a suit? Sure, W. had a penchant for cowboys boots with his suit but normally wore dark loafers. In a circle full of oxfords and wingtips, it's refreshing to see these boots worn by Peter Orszag, Director of the White House Office of Management and Budge. The rest of the ensemble is understated: pinstripe suit (maybe BB?) button-down collar blue shirt and red patterned tie. All fairly safe choices.

 He was speaking to Council on Foreign Relations in this photo from Wednesday, July 22.  Politicians can ease a little personal style into the narrow tunnel of Capitol Hill fashion.

No More Men.Style.com

I read this in The Cut Blog today, men.style.com will shut down in October. From there, GQ and Details will each have a website. The setup always seemed odd to me, and certainly others. Esquire is its own site as is Men's Health and other leading men's magazines. Why would one of the heavyweights, GQ, be lumped onto a site with a few other brands? Well, no more. 

Great piece on J. Press

The manager of the J. Press store in Cambridge discusses the company's history and how they've survived in the midst of rapidly changing styles.

George H.W. Bush famously stated in 1980 that he wasn't a Brooks Brothers Republican, but a J. Press devotee as evidenced by the tag inside his jacket.

For over a century the company has focused on a 3-button sack suit. Essentially, the shape in less contoured that many contemporary styles. They also advocate a cuff on plain front pants, almost unheard of in today's men's magazines, style blogs and forums. It's the definition of preppy by our standards today. What it really is, is classic American clothing clothing that has remained virtually unchanged, which can be refreshing.

Check out the story by clicking the blog title.

Not an official endorsement, but close

I promise I'm not being compensated for this, it's out of pure love for the styles, price points and quality of shoes from To Boot New York. Designer Adam Derrick has been in the business for over two decades, according to information on the website. The shoes are all made in Italy of what the company calls the finest leather. Handsewn and handsome many of the styles are at home with jeans just as much as suits. The leather soles are sewn on rather than glued. The styles are clean and sleek. The cuts range from classic to contemporary (a tad elongated).

Take a look at these brilliant double monkstraps, which can be paired with suits in shades of blue and grey to begin with. Try them with a nondescript jean to dress up up the casual pant. While this particular model comes with a nearly $400 price tag don't be alarmed. For a fraction of the, outlet stores like Off 5th and Neiman Marcus Last Call carry many styles of To Boot shoes. I recently bought a third pair of shoes from the company, a sleek plain black oxford with wingtip stitching details, at a significant markdown on Off 5th. Styles from previous seasons are still nice even when the new ones come out. Why not get them on sale if you can wait.

Do try this at home

Everything's right about Bill Nighy's ensemble here. The jacket nips in just so at the waist; the jacket's lapels and shirt collar compliment one another; there's a great amount of sleevage; in short, a great combination. 

What's even better is that there's nothing complicated about the suit or shirt; two shades of blue that work nicely together. No cuff links, no pocket square, no tie but it all looks great together. This is understated at its best. The patch pockets take it to the next level in summer elegance.

News Minute 7.09

News Minute 7.02

News Minute 6.24

Depp and Bale

I have not anticipated a movie this much since The Dark Knight. Public Enemies, the story of John Dillinger (played by Johnny Depp) and FBI agent Melvin Purvis (played by Christian Bale), opens in a few days. Two gifted actors both of whom still take on indie or non-mainstream projects despite mass commercial success. 

At the premiere in LA, Bale took the classic route: dark suit, white shirt, dark tie. This look is never boring when the proportions are correct. He looks great, although a shave wouldn't hurt.

Depp, looks pretty good in a Tom Ford suit. Sleeves could have benefitted from a tailor. The sunglasses and hair is all Johnny Depp.

Chris Brown is guilty

I'm a journalist, not a legal expert. I can't speak to whether it's a fair deal that Chris Brown got. He plead guilty to felony assault and got zero jail time and some probation. No one will forget the pictures of Rihann's face. But, alas, he's also the poster boy for a suit wearing him. Every detail about his court ensemble needed tweaking. The collar on his dress shirt needed to bigger and collar stays would have been useful. The collar stands out rather than sitting comfortably on the shirt. It's not so much the combination, just the proportions.

Since the collar is so small, a smaller knot in his tie would have complimented the collar. It's basic elementary. Either that or a spread collar shirt.

He shows no sleevage. It's a more put together look whe

n the jacket sleeves are taken up a bit to show some shirt cuff. That's a great amount of room in those jacket sleeves. Maybe two arms can fit into one sleeve. Again, just take the size down a notch.

A cardinal sin: he's fastened both buttons on his two-button suit. Look at how awkward the jacket looks when he moves with both buttons done. It's constricting. 

The check suit is a quite bold choice. Maybe too bold for the courtroom. Rihanna looked elegant yet subdued for the hearing.

Read Kenyatte Nelson's Tweed & Velvet blog entry about courtroom attire http://www.tweedandvelvet.com/2009/06/holding-court.html.

Beat the heat

It's wicked outside. Just plain miserable. But, you still want to look good. Right? Start from the top. Protect your dome if you find yourself outside. Straw hats are super cool and super cool. They look good and will block out some of the harmful rays the sun just happens to give off. While you're at it, test out a Panama Hat. It's a bit dressier. Notice the brim is slightly stiffer than the hat above. The more flexible the brim, the more casual the hat. Certainly, that's not a rule set in stone by the style gods (Alan Flusser, Esquire, GQ/Apparel Arts, etc). It can be worn with summery suits but probably works better with trousers. That means it won't work at the beach as well. Here is none other than Sir Sean Connery, the man every man wanted to be as Agent 007.

A quick reminder

Don't leave your jacket sleeves like Jayson Williams. It's OK to take the jacket to a tailor. Hopefully, with a good tailor, your sleeves will show 1/2 inch of shirt cuff, like French President Nicolas  Sarkozy.

Roger Federer...bringing cool back to the court

Roger Federer is back. King of the Court he is. Having tied Pete Sampras' record of 14 grand slams with a win at Roland Garros, Federer's confidence has to be at high. After a devastating loss to Rafael Nadal at this year's Australian Open, the buzz around real tennis people was, "Is he done?" Could Federer have been broken beyond repair after his tears flooded Rod Laver Arena? Eh...you never count out champions. I'm not saying he won't have battles with Nadal again, I'm just assuming his confidence is back. His swag is there, and it good to see. Don't believe me? Check out the gold and white warm-up suit he wore to practice  Sunday. Most guys on the tour don't look that cool in civilian clothes. That wasn't enough. If ever there was a time when a man's wardrobe matched or spoke for his swag, it's Wimbledon 2009. It's only the first day but, the safari jacket, the white trousers with gold piping and the vest. Masterful. Wimbledon is about class and tradition. Federer gives a nod to the old school with the trousers (players didn't always wear shorts) although he'll ditch his when it's time to play, it's still pretty damn cool. Take note of the gold on the Nike bag to coordinate with the lettering. All meant to signify what he's here for: the golden Wimbledon trophy. To be the best and look the best is a combination Sampras never had and Nadal hasn't figured out.

Congrats to Dan T.

I've got to congratulate Dan T. He was named the Fan Favorite Finalist in Esquire's Best Dressed Real Man in America contest. He's got some really fantastic combinations and simply put, dresses his ass off. I was also competing for the Fan Favorite finalist but alas, the people have spoken. They chose a very stylish guy. 

Now, there are still four finalists slots up for grabs. It's up to the editors now, so I thank everyone who voted and showed me love.

Quick look

What's not to like about this combo from Sean Lennon. All summer staples, all working in harmony together. I browsing the AP server and had to share this photo. The stubble and glasses give this seersucker jacket a fresher feel than if he had been clean shaven. Take a page from Mr. Lennon's book for your summer look.

French Open Style

During the past two weeks, I've caught clips of the French Open. It, and the U.S. Open rank are the two more stylish of the four majors. It has a great deal to do with the sponsors. Lacoste is the official apparel sponsor for chair umpire and linespeople at the French Open, while Polo Ralph Lauren outfits the same folks at the U.S. Open. What sets them apart is the cut of the clothing. The Lacoste polo shirts hit somewhere in the middle of the bicep and the pants are slim, not skinny. 

Omega's most famous mission

My mother often tells me the story. She and her older brother (my stylish uncle) say their goodbyes to their dad and board the plane in Port of Spain, Trinidad. Several hours later, they land at JFK airport in Queens, the first time in the United States. The place is abuzz. It's hectic. New country. Must find mom. My grandmother spots her children, everyone piles in the car, hop on the Van Wyck and head for Park Avenue in the Bronx. The streets are talking, people are excited. They can't figure out what's going on. Was it a holiday? Some parade? America can't be like this everyday, they may have wondered. When they arrive at at home, turn on the televsion and what's on? Man had just landed on the moon. They just happened to arrive in America July 20, 1969.

If you're good at math, which I'm not, you'll realize 2009 marks the 40th anniversary of the Apollo 11's landing. It's well documented what was said about the step and mankind. The Omega Speedmaster was the timepiece the crew wore during the mission. Nasa selected Omega after tested Rolex and Breitling, among other watches. The luxury watch celebrates the 40th anniverary of the landing with a special edition unveiled Wednesday in New York by none other than Buzz Aldrin.

The Speedmaster is a beautiful timepiece. It's rugged yet has a very classic appeal. The history of the watch with NASA really solidifies that masculine quality. Among high-end watches, it's around $3,000, not bad when the Submariner is close to twice that.

Dressing well

Alan Flusser sums up dressing well in this video from men.style.com. He makes some valid points about the fashion industry and what they present for menswear. Enjoy!

A case for collar stays

Collars just look better straight, how God intended them to be. Collars whose points have turned in lend a unkempt look to the wearer. It's all about the little details. Here, Britain's Foreign Sec. David Milliband is guilty. All events considered, this is the least of the Labour party's problems. Style-wise, it's a quick fix that can turn an outfit around.

Collar Stay tips

* Remove them when washing 

* Plastic or brass (brass is stronger but, excessive use can tear the underside of the collar

* In a pinch, bobby pins or paper clips work well

A little sports talk

Poor Nike. LeBron James (and the Cavs) lose, sorry, are slaughtered by the Magic. The best player in the league exits the court quicker than the rest of his team moved on it. Rafael Nadal, somehow, loses at the French Open. I'm sure Kobe and Federer are happy. Nike's still got them, but it's not the same. Kobe and Federer came up, lost and won. They proved themselves time and again. Those guys have had their time climbing that plateau. They've won titles unopposed. The game is arguably more exciting when a guy hasn't won, when he hasn't hoisted that trophy or been number No. 1. Nadal are LeBron have achieved success but, they're still climbing. That's why it's thrilling to watch them, especially LeBron. Kobe has three championship rings, Federer has 13 grand slam titles and was No. 1 for what seemed to be forever (after Pistol Pete). 

In comes Dwight Howard and the Orlando Magic. A man just a few year removed from high school and a team with sporadic post-season success. Analysts, bloggers, fans, ESPN, the NBA and of course, Nike didn't see it coming. There were no match-ups of Dwight and Kobe. No comparisons with the two Disney-hosting cities. The Magic swooped in quietly, efficiently and all-around to stop King James and the Cavs. Just like an unknown Swede toppled the four-time French Open champion. The biggest are stoppable, which makes room for the improbable.

Vote for Change (Of Clothes)

Today is the final day of voting in Esquire's Best Dressed Real Man. If you have a moment or 30, please vote!

Get the look

If you happen to get stuck in the art of dressing look for inspiration in magazines. They're a great tool if you want something different and can't quite figure it out. Take an ad or photo when you go shopping. Ensembles in magazine's certainly aren't meant to be worn with only the accompanying pieces. Just because you like everything about the outfit, doesn't mean you wear only those items together every time. It's that shirt/tie/link/square in a box combo mentality.

That said, it's a great visual inspiration. Magazine's often tout the best quality items (which indeed are fine) but don't necessarily match every man's wardrobe. 

I'm a walking example of this today. I was ironing my shirt and realized I had put together something worn by Jason Stathum several months before. However, at a much lower price point. This is a two-fold message. Magazine looks can be had for less. It just takes some time and digging.

In the September 2008 issue of GQ Jason Stathum has on jacket ($2,650, part of a suit) and shirt($645) from Louis Vuitton; tie by Thomas Pink ($105); jeans by A.P.C. ($155); shoes by Brooks Brothers ($568); and tie bar from Thom Browne. This look was specifically for wearing jeans at the office; it's simple and clean. This look can go anywhere but, the proportions must be correct. Slim, not skinny, jacket, tie and jeans.

I did the same look for considerably less today. Jacket by H&M ($50); shirt by Missoni ($60 on clearance); tie by Polo Ralph Lauren (an astonishing $2 tucked away behind dozens of undesirable ties at TJ Maxx); jeans by A.P.C. and tie bar by Geoffrey Beene.

The Perfect Tie

The black silk knit tie (which I'm wearing today) is the most versatile tie in my collection of about 30 neckties (in varying colors and fabrics). It's the tie I can easily dress up or down. Charcoal suit, white shirt, black silk knit tie. Check. Jack Purcells, slim black trousers, denim jacket, said tie. Check. 

Knit ties still aren't all that common. Getting some men into a necktie can be a nearly a Herculean ordeal. Tell him he only needs one and the complaints will (hopefully) fade. The soft, nubby texture makes it perfect for the summer. The square bottom lends a more casual feel to it, making it a fantastic match for jeans and a simple white shirt. 

Sure, you can wear other ties with jeans and a suit but, this one can go formal (much like in several Ralph Lauren Black Label ads). Black silk ties can go formal but, look stuffy when paired with a sneaker like an Adidas Samba or Chuck Taylor. Meanwhile, silk knit tie in other colors may work well with a multitude of jackets, suits and jeans but, they'll never be as elegant as the tie in black. 

This is the go-to tie.

The perfect denim

For my recent birthday, I received what has now become the perfect pair of jeans. I have a pretty solid collection of denim: Levi's, Helmut Lang, Earnest Sewn (I'm a sale shopper) but this new pair trounces them all. The fit in unparalleled, the wash is that shade that works in the office and at the lounge, the cut and fit hit the bottom of my mocha split-toe oxfords and look just at home with my "vintage" Fila hi tops. They're not dangerously low-waisted as all men are not A&F models, nor are they too high. The straight fit is what I usually stick to. These are slim but, not hipster skinny. 

What you'll love about the lack of stitching is the jeans are at home just about anywhere. I prefer not to wear jeans to say a church or a elegant dinner but, one wouldn't be out of place. Trendier jeans have their places and times. The New Standard, however, works at all times.

I've read about the A.P.C. New Standard for some time now. I've read the praise fashion editors have headed on the unadorned pant. I must say, I'm experiencing what they're written about: how the jeans are stiffer than cardboard, how they eventually conform to your body, how the understated aspects and superb fit make more of an impact than an embroidered 'R' on a back pocket could ever make. So far, they're the perfect jeans.

Vote for Change (Of Clothes)

Much love

In spreading the word for Esquire's Best Dressed Real Man. I've gotten an tons for support for friends, coworkers and relatives around the country and hemisphere. It's still early but I want to thank everyone for spreading the word. I also want to direct you all to The Gentleman's Standard and The Style Arbiter, both of which are in my favs. These two sites are amazing sources of style information and inspiration. The men behind them are quite stylish as well.

Funk up your eyewear with Paul Frank

I've worn glasses since I was a boy of seven. That was waaaay back in 1990. Big was in. That's what I had. Big, clunky glasses. Throughout the years, I never warmed up to the idea of visiting the optometrist. I wished I didn't have to wear those nerdy specs. That and, I got stuck in the restroom while waiting for an eye exam once, which further traumatized me.

I always went for basic, non-descript frames. No need to rock the boat. As I got older there were two major instances: I nearly passed out when I tried on contacts (can't touch my eye for anything), and I concluded that a laser and eye shouldn't meet. I'll have these glasses for my life.

OK! Why not embrace them and make them part of my ensemble. Eyewear should play into your overall look. Why treat it like that that awful-tasting side dish. It's such a big part of style and it took me time to realize it.

*Make glasses an extension of your personality

*Don't be afraid to experiment with color and shapes

*Take a trusted friend or spouse when you pick out frames

*Think outside the box; if you have a great pair of sun glass frames you like, get prescription lenses for them

*Check ebay for vintage frames

*Don't limit yourself to the frames at your local eyeglass emporium

*Hop on those two-for-one deals. Having two (or more) pair of eyeglasses gives you some options in the morning.

Try Paul Frank. They make some absolutely amazing (and affordable) frames. Like the ones above.

Check out Paul Frank at http://www.facebook.com/pages/Paul-Frank-Optics/113189870365 and paulfrank.com

Sandal weather

When the temp rises you wear thinner materials, right? You ditch the wool suits in favor of linen and cotton pieces, don't you? If not, I heavily suggest you do so but, today is about the feet. Let them breath during the hot summer months.

Ditch the socks, do away with boots, no heavy lug-soled shoes when it's 90 degrees outside. Turn up the style on your feet. Try sandals is shades of brown and black. Like these above. The thin soles lend a dressier feel to the footwear (summer dressy), rather than thick-soled sport sandals with Velcro and padding. Think leather, rather than rubber.

When these are worn, however, one must make the feet presentable. That doesn't mean an all-out pedicure (though it's great to have one). At the very least, make sure you toenails won't cut anyone; clear out any dirt or particles of sock from under the nail; no ashy feet.

Flip flops have there place. The beach and the locker room. The American youth has made everyplace flip flop accessible. Real shoes are safer, more stylish and more creative. That said, they're a great place for a shot of color.

Esquire Best Dressed

I've made it into the Esquire Magazine Best Dressed Real Man contest. Check it out at
http://www.esquirebdrm.com/

New Post---Finally

http://www.ocala.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20090430/VIDEO/904302023&template=video&lineup=1334447334

Style Minute

Aim to look like this

Mr. President stuck with solids for most of the campaign. He's slowly begun to break out the pinstriped suits. This is the most daring I've seen his business wear get. The fit is really fantastic. The waist nips in just so. The silvery tie played well into the Easter/spring palette. A closetful of solid suits can get dull. Turn up the volume (as much as a head of state can).

Style Minute-Obamas take Europe

This is my style video, published on Ocala.com. Today I'm discussing the style of the First Lady, Michelle Obama. Also, what you can learn from the G20...style wise.

Nike Air Yeezy

Yep. After a collaboration with Louis Vuitton, Kanye West has his own Nikes. Why not brand yourself as much as possible while you can. But $215? I suppose it goes with Kanye's overall love of himself and everything his name's attached to. 

Ouch!

Let's say I happened to be switching through the channels Saturday evening. I was vaguely aware of the 25th anniversary of WrestleMania. I was even more unaware of the WWE Hall of Fame ceremonies. Being a former fan of wrestlers like The Ultimate Warrior and Superfly Jimmy Snuka I can't help myself every now and again. WWE chairman/CEO/majority shareholder/sometimes performer Vince McMahon was introducing the final inductee for the televised ceremony. Who comes out but beer-drinkin', hell-raisin', 3:16 himself Stone Cold Steve Austin. In a tux. An ill-fitting tux. My first thought was, "He's got money to buy a tuxedo, why is he wearing this?"

Well, Austin opened his speech by mentioning that, moments prior to walking out on stage, the button on his jacket popped off. He was none to pleased about being seen in front of thousands of fans and millions at home with a jacket that he was unable to fasten. He didn't stop there, he went on to rant about The Men's Wearhouse, the manufacturer of the jacket, putting them on blast in a national spotlight. How's that for Mr. George "You're gonna like the way you look, I guarantee it," Zimmer, CEO of TMW. Having worked at a free-standing unit, I can attest to the poor quality of many of the house labels at TMW. 

I'm pretty solid on purchasing a tux. But a $200 tuxedo isn't a bargain. Check little pieces like buttons, zippers and hems when you look at garments. These are the pieces you need to stay put. Something well-made should hold up for years provided you're not playing rugby in your dinner jacket.

Stone Cold, after a touching (actually yeah) speech, popped open two beer cans and guzzled them down. Whatever beer didn't fall in his mouth landed on the tuxedo jacket. That's about right for a tuxedo from The Men's Wearhouse.

Tighten your knot

I applaud the efforts of the current Treasury Secretary. I can't begin to imagine what it entails. At the helm of hundreds of billions of dollars, battling a vote-no opposition party, and an anxious public, Timothy Geithner has an enormous amount of responsibility. Dressing well isn't near the top of his list. That's understandable, but just 5 seconds of work would make him look much better. Mr. Geithner's tie knots are consistently loose, with visible top button. It's a small fix that would yield instant style results. There are no quick fixes in any other aspect of his position. Why not have one.